Big Island, as the name suggests, is definitely bigger than all its counterpart Hawaiian islands. However, it is somewhat contrary to the name when it comes to its age! It is the youngest island as it has recent volcano eruptions that are to date shaping its landscapes. Also when thinking about the Hawaiian islands, you may think about sunny beaches and warm weather. Big Island definitely offers these and many more adventures.
The biggest difference which I found between Big island and any other island I have been to, is the varied topography! Unlike other islands, you will spot beaches which are lined by black volcanic lava rocks and maybe sparse green vegetation on these black rocks. Being so different from any other tropical islands, it has its own charm.
Green and black sand beaches to oceans clad with Manta rays, whales and dolphins, sunny beaches on the west to lush green rainforests on the east, world-renowned Volcano national park with recent volcanic eruptions to worlds highest peak (from sea level) Mauna Kea, Big Island has it all.
Travel tips and things to keep in mind:
Stay - Hilo and Kona - If you want to visit the entire island, the best advice would be to have at least a week with your stay between the two main towns of Kona and Hilo. This will give you more time to explore the places and attractions and spend less time on travel. If you prefer to stay off the road and experience a nomadic experience staying on a dormant volcano, we would highly recommend reserving a spot on Airbnb.
Not all beaches are safe to swim - There have been recent volcanic eruptions with the last one being in 2018. Although Big island has Pacific all around it, there may be unknown areas which may have volcanic eruptions flowing into the ocean.
Rent a car - You will need to rent a car and if possible would be preferable to get a 4 wheeler vehicle if possible.
Pack for sun, swim, rain, and snow - As I have mentioned above, Big island is very diverse in its topography. Plan to carry sunscreen, swimwear for all the adventure activities in the ocean and waterproof camera/ go pro, rain jacket if you plan to visit the Hilo side. If you plan to go to the summit of Mauna Kea, it will be very cold and maybe snow-clad as well.
Enjoy the tropical fruits - You will be able to spot fruit stalls on the way or may also be able to visit some of the farmers’ markets and enjoy the delicious tropical delights. Be sure to carry some cash as the local vendors may only accept cash. Rambutan and Logan are must-haves while on the Big Island
Download offline maps - As the network may not be consistent in some of the areas.
Swimming - It may be required if you are planning to do some of the water activities.
Central Part of the Island - Mauna Kea: The tallest mountain on the Planet
Mauna Kea Summit: Have you wondered what it means to be on top of the world’s tallest mountain (from the sea level) and able to view the setting sun from the summit? Take a trip to the summit of Mauna Kea to witness one of the dreamy sunsets of your life. We started our drive from the western part of the island, Kona and it took roughly 2 hours to reach the summit. It is recommended to drive a four-wheel to the summit but if you are an experienced driver and are up for some fun gravel drive, ride in your car to the summit. There are various viewpoints at the summit next to the observatories to witness the sunset.
The most important part to keep in mind is to track the weather at the summit via the link http://mkwc.ifa.hawaii.edu/ They offer real-time images of the current situation. This helped us to determine if the summit was snowy and if the road conditions were good for us to drive up and down. (DO NOT refer to weather at the bottom of the mountain) It may be drastically sunny up there while it rains at the base. You don't want to miss a wonderful sunset just due to the lack of information.
Southern of the Island - Colors of Volcano
Papakolea Beach/ Green Sand Beach: One of the rare natural wonders of the world and one of the four known green sand beaches in the world is located near the southernmost tip of the United States. The green sand beach gets its name from the green-colored crystals lining the beach. The sand crystals get their unique olive green color from a lava mineral component known as “Olivine”. Olivine being denser than the other lava components gets accumulated near the beach.
The green sand beach can be accessed by a 2.5-mile hike (which is around 5 miles round trip). Plan to reach the beach early as it may take almost a 3 - 4 hours round trip and wear sturdy shoes as the road is quite uneven. If you are like me and want to head straight to the beach, there are some locals who have their 4 wheelers out and are willing to take big groups (around 10 people) to the beach and back for around $40. The ride to the beach itself can be a once in a lifetime experience as the road to the beach is completely dirt road through the hills.
The beach is a natural jewel left in all its remoteness! It does not have any water or food supplies so please plan to carry enough food and water. It is worth your time as you get to see one of the 4 green sand beaches in the world and admire the beautiful colors that mother nature has to offer.
Black Sand Beach: Just a few miles from the green sand beach, you will come across another beach shaded by the lava particles. This time it’s the black color of the lava rocks crumbled into jet black crystals. Commonly known as the Black Sand beach, its name is Punaluʻu Beach.
The beach is studded with coconut trees but with the rare background of back sand and blue ocean. On a good day, the turtles will be out to soak in some sun and greet you. We spent over an hour here relaxing by the beach and admiring the creativity around us.
I would recommend planning almost two days for the beaches and the national park and preferably stay on the Hilo sides of the island.
Volcano National Park: The Volcano National Park is one of the most unique national parks in the US. Visiting this national treasure would make you feel like setting your foot on a different planet!! The geography is so diverse and gives you a chance to step on the lava in its natural state before urbanization takes it over.
Depending on the activity of the volcanoes, you may be able to see the glowing lava. Since the latest eruption of 2018, the volcano has been dormant and there are no active eruptions. This may always change when you plan your trip so make sure to check the National Park website for the latest updates.
From glowing lava to tremors on the earth crust, from gusting winds to sun and rain painting beautiful rainbows, from black rocks to blue waves this national park has all the drama. We entered the park and headed to the visitor center to collect all the information. The staff at the visitors center is very knowledgeable and passionate about their natural treasure and takes great pride in explaining it.
Right across from the visitor center, you can walk to the Volcano House, which will give you the first glimpse of the volcanic crater. From there we drove on the crater rim drive and took a short hike on the Crater rim trailhead to view the crater and its steam vents. We spent the rest of the evening exploring the Chain of Craters Road and driving to the Holei Sea Arch for a beautiful sunset!
The western part of the Island - Fun-filled Beaches and adventures
Our day on the west coast of Hawaii was filled with various water activities and admiring the sea creatures in the Pacific.
Swim with dolphins - Hawaiian coast is inhabited by dolphins and you may be able to spot herds of dolphins along the Kona coast. We signed up for a Dolphin Discovery tour along with the Aloha Dolphin tour. The tour guide took us in a speed boat along the Kona coast to spot the dolphins in their natural habitat. It took us almost an hour to find the dolphins but it was definitely worth the wait. We saw pods of dolphins swimming along with us. Once we saw the dolphins, we got into the ocean to snorkel and to get a closer look at the fishes. It was definitely one of the highlights of the trip!
Snorkel near Captain Cook monument - After having a playful morning with the dolphins, it was now time to explore the other marine creatures and coral reefs. We headed to the Captain Cook monument for the marine treat it offers to the visitors and is one of the best sites to snorkel in Big Island. This site is remote and is not accessible by road, however, there are few different options; hiking down to the monument, kayaking, sailing offered by Paradise Sailing Hawaii, or take a cruise to the monument. We took the cruise to the monument operated by Fairwind Cruises as we had already been on the speedboat and wanted a different experience! It was definitely one of the snorkeling cruises I have been to. The staff was amazing and the cruise was very clean. They had all the gears needed for snorkeling and additionally also provided an option for snuba diving.
Manta Ray Night Snorkel - One of the adventures which are very unique to the Big Island is the night time Manta ray adventures! It’s a must-do when you are in Big Island. The highlight of this trip is to snorkel under the moonlight along with the gigantic Manta rays and if you are lucky enough, also get a teaser belly rub from these huge creatures. The show starts as the tour guides put the light on at the base of the ocean, which in turn attracts planktons - the food for Manta Rays. The tour company will provide wetsuits as it might get colder at night and all the snorkel equipment. These creatures are harmless but spectacular so do not miss your chance to see them up close in their natural habitat. We used the Groupon deal for Hawaii Island and Ocean Tours for our adventures.
Beaches and Beach Parks of the West
Magic Sand Beaches - Nestled in the Kailua-Kona area along Ali drive, this white sand beach which attracts the tourist. The beach is small but has big waves and is good for swimming and surfing. We saw a few green sea turtles swimming along with us and enjoyed a splendid sunset with some beachside luau and music.
If you are looking for some night time attractions, there are many restaurants and clubs along the Ali drive, north to the beach.
Kekaha Kai State Park is a beach park located along the north Kona coast. The road to the state park is a 2-mile rugged drive on the volcanic rocks (recommended 4 wheel car). It is a beautiful, not so crowded beach perfect for sunbathing and swimming. Big Island’s famous lonely tree also stands on this beach park. Few mins of the walk will lead you to the famous white sand beach called Makalawena beach.
Hapuna Beach Is is one of the few beaches on the big island which is studded with white sand and is great for swimming. The entry fee to the beach is around $5 and has sufficient parking. We spent one of the mornings lazing around the beach and enjoying the warm sun.
Northern and Eastern part of the Island - Lush green forests and waterfalls
Waipio Lookout: Along the northern coast of Big island you will get to see lush green valleys and beautiful coastline. Stop for a lookout at the Waipio lookout. The lookout is 2 minutes walk from the parking area and offers gorgeous views of the coastline with a black sand beach. There is an option to hike down to the black sand beach and explore the valley. You could also take guided tours from the locals down to the beach if you do not want to hike it.
On the way to the Waipio lookout, you may also want to stop by the Waimea Coffee Company to grab some fresh brew and delicious bagel sandwiches.
Waterfalls on the Way: While heading from the Waipio lookout to the Akaka falls there are multiple random waterfalls to admire. We also took a little detour to the Botanical World Adventures to see some of the Hawaiian plantations and Waterfalls.
Akaka waterfalls: The Akaka falls state park features two amazing waterfalls - Akaka falls and Kahuna falls. Akaka falls with 442 feet height is the highest waterfall in Big Island. To get to the state park, there is a fee of $5 for each vehicle. Plenty of parking is available at the state park. From the parking to the falls is a quarter-mile hike that will take you through a lush green rainforest studded with wild orchids, bamboo allies, and tropical plantations.
In all, this island had a lot to offer in terms of diverse experiences and encounters with the power of nature as well as activities and adventures. I would truly come to this place again. If you wish to club your visit with the other Hawaiian Islands, here are some of our fun-filled itineraries for Maui and Oahu!
~Nomadic Traveller~
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